Scotland – Trip to Oban Part 1

Both of us started writing up this next section of the trip not knowing that the other had already begun. Since a fair amount of it was double-written already, we thought we would include both to show how we each experienced the day a little differently even though we were together throughout. Feel free to read both, either or any combination thereof.

In the text below, Steven will be on the left and Kevin on the right.

Here's a map of where our travels are taking us on this day to give a little perspective.

We scheduled four nights at Thistle House, which, if you know how you typically travel, is an extended time for us to be in one place. We did this for two reasons: because we didn't want be constantly on the move but also because we felt this to be fairly well located for making day-trips around the area. As it turned out, we kept ourselves pretty busy staying close to "home" for the most part but today we're venturing further out. Off to Oban it is.

K: Up ‘early’ – for us that tended to be just before the breakfast service was over – and off to Oban after tucking in more of the hearty Scottish fare – black pudding and haggis fried, crunchy good, but really too much richness for that early in the day. We decided to take a tour of the countryside and headed back through Inveraray on A83 toward Lochgilphead and then up the coast to Oban on A816. We thought the ride would all be as beautiful as the Lock Fyne and Inveraray area was, but we quickly discovered the working part of the countryside included all the elements Disney would never want you to see. Of course we knew someplace in our heads that trees were being farmed, cement was created, and quarries existed, we just didn’t think of it until we passed through this area. We had decided against driving all the way down to Campbell town, in spite of the strong recommendation by a local. We’d heard that Campbell town was pretty run down and not worth the drive. Given how long our drive turned out to be just to get to Oban, I’m glad we didn’t venture south any more than we did.

S: According to Google Maps, this should be 80 miles taking only 2 hrs. Piece of cake, right? But we decided to get an early start of it just the same. So first things first, gotta get down to breakfast before it's too late. The usual fare; still delicious. We’re certainly not the first down this morning, but not the last either. We're struck once again by the variety of languages heard around the breakfast room but still not a lot of conversation between tables with everyone keeping to their selves.

Once we have ourselves together, it's time to head out. Back around Loch Fyne and past Inveraray Castle and on down the loch. Not many sites to stop and see along the way but do venture off the main road on occasion to see what can be seen.

Stopped at one little road house/garden nursery for some tea for the road. Nice views of the loch and surprised to see a few scuba divers heading into the water. Would certainly be interesting to see what's down there but that will have to wait for a return trip and a firmer commitment to dry-suit diving!

Onward we go with a detour here or there to a random side-street or two, much to Kevin's dismay. After all, you have to get off the beaten path to see the real county, right? No problem that we end up basically in people's driveways earning us the occasional quizzical stare from the locals. Another detour took us off looking for a castle ruin marked on the map but all we found was a construction company's truck yard, oh well! Back to the road.

K: Lochgilphead promised to be lovely Victorian seaside village…unfortunately, it was virtually shut down being Sunday and all. To be honest, we didn’t really think of that as we planned the day. We missed seeing Kilmory Castle and Gardens and the Celtic Cross someplace in town. Nowhere to eat lunch, not much charm, and a seaside that looked a bit depressing. I know, how can a seaside look gloomy? This one did is all I can say. Off with us and up the coast to Oban, but on the way we decided to get off road a bit and try to find a lookout Jennifer had mentioned. The first place Steven turned off headed up a fire road, not looking too promising. I was getting a bit worried that we’d get stuck on a rut in the road, we had a low riding Mercedes C Class after all. Just as we were about to turn around…eureka, there was a park that turned out to be the trailhead for loads of trails into the hills. We weren’t outfitted for a long hike so we chose a smallish one (well, to be honest a very short one) into the woods, thinking that it might get us to some view of the valley. At least that was the hope. Nope. The trail just kept going but never up to any viewpoint. Steven ambled on a bit further than I, but no go, no view. We stopped now and again just to enjoy the air and all the really lovely wildflowers and stone walls. By time we got back to the parking area it was absolutely filled with old Land Rovers and Range Rovers, and I do mean old – say 1950’s and nothing newer than the 70’s. I walked over to one of the guys…they were all guys…and casually asked what was up. It turned out to be a monthly gathering of all the local fire fighters and rescue workers. They have a sort of jamboree of Land Rovers and hang out, then head up onto the off-roading areas. Steven was getting bitten by some midges we think, so we head on soon thereafter.

S: Further along we see ano
ther enticing diversion. This time it was a Historic Scotland sign pointing to something called Achnabreck. The drive up the road didn't look too promising, looked more like a logging road than anything else. But we found a parking lot that looked like what we would expect with interpretive signs and a few tables. Just one other car/couple when we arrived, they soon left. We take a look around at the interpretive signs and decide to follow one of the marked trails which started off nice enough but didn't hold our attention for long. The interpretive signs mentioned the ancient Achnabeck Cup and Ring Marks but it looked to be a bit of a hike from where we were. We head back to the car to find that the parking lot is now nearly full. We were only there for maybe 15 minutes. Turns out we stumbled into a gathering or off-road rally of the local search and rescue team/Land Rover club. Had a nice chat with one of them about the differences between US and UK versions of Land Rovers and "vintage" vs new. This gentleman had more than a few opinions on the matter. Lest we get a full lessons on Land Rover technology and construction we made our move to head on.

Another historic marker catches our attention a little further up the road. This one is the Nether Largie standing stones. We find the small car park and follow the signs across the road, over a babbling brook, and into an open pasture. The information sign tells that these vertically standing stones were most likely a form of calendar, much like Stonehenge (though MUCH smaller) or some of the other standing stones in the Salisbury area of England. Arrange in a X pattern with a couple further away. It's estimated that these were placed as far back as 3,200 - 4,700 years ago. The inscription further read that the stones provide protection for those who camp nearby but bad fortune for anyone who touches them - better safe than sorry, so no touchy! Moving along to get a closer look at the stones, we're "greeted" by the local sheep herd. I wouldn't say they necessarily welcomed our presence but they minded their own business of eating the grass and scratching themselves on the ancient stones (I hope the curse doesn't pertain to them!) but mainly moving away whenever we get near - just as well, I say. The carvings in the stone were quite fascinating and it's always fun at places such as this to imagine what it would have been like to be here when it was known what they were intended to be, to "get into the mind" of those who placed them. At the same time, I have to wonder, were those really deliberate, meaningful markings, or was it just some bored kid practicing his/her carving skills, graffiti as it were. I suppose we'll never know.

K: In another spontaneous turn off the road, Steven found us a great ancient stone sight, the Nether Largie Standing Stones. Keep in mind the narrowness of the roads in general…this was just barely a path. We had to turn out into some brush to let cars and lorries go by; a little unnerving but no harm done. Having successfully parked, we found the short trail across the road/path, over a little stream, and on to an open field where the stones were. The stones were hidden for centuries but deforesting and farming brought them into site once again. The placard stated this unusual X formation might be one of the most important lunar calendar sites in Britain going back some 3,200 years or so. We were just about the only ones there…excepting for the gathering of very self-possessed sheep. These sheep knew we were the interlopers, make no mistake, but they didn’t really want us close to them. Fine by me. Steven got some good shots with his telephoto lens though. The stones were not only majestic but hauntingly beautiful set as they were in a flat plane, once the edge of the sea, surrounded by a v-shaped valley of low lying hills. Older trees dotted the landscape make this site was a real find. I paid attention to the posted information saying not to touch the stones as they were thought to be protected by a spell that would bring misfortune to the person silly enough to test it. Well, not long and a small group of tourists came up and promptly began feeling up the stones with abandon. I wonder how they fared.

S: As we're about to head back to the car, another couple walks up and starts touching the stones and feeling the carvings (the tall one pictured above). I hope they're heading the other direction down the highway later. Their bad luck almost happened right there and then however - I was about to take a picture of that particular stone from a few feet away when they walked up between me, with my camera to my eye, and the stone - and then wouldn't leave....wouldn't leave...wouldn't leave...hand me a rock...finally they move just in time.

K: We got back on the main road, passing through the village of Kilmartin where we stopped to visit the church…and of course its cemetery.

S: Next stop was the town of Kilmartin. Perhaps, we're not sure, this was the plac
e which Jennifer (our proprietor at the guest house) was suggesting we visit as a historic place where the kings of ancient Scotland were traditionally crowned. This is a tidy little village up on a ridge about the valley of Kilmartin Glen. There's a ancient church here with its even older cemetery. We parked in a little neighborhood just off the maid road and walked over to the church and wandered about the cemetery. Some headstone were fairly recent (within the past 150 years) while others back to at least the 1600's. Inside the small church were some commemorative plaques for various notable Campbells. The date were nearly 100 years after my Campbell ancestors left the area, so probably not much need to spend time researching any possible connections.

We give a miss to the museum and the cafe didn't look too interesting so after a spin through the gift shop and a few more photos of the village, it's back to the car to hit the road once more.

This is as far as we got when we realized we were duplicating efforts - how's that for communication?

Steven will write about the rest of the day in the next post.

Ciao for now!